"Went to the act cent. First 20 minutes I thought I was going to slit my wrists. Peaks rising in the center of the beach and crumbling on top but not breaking. Not even enough oomph to get a decent boogie board ride and I was on the Flamer. As the tide went out the small shorey by the far wall started to work and we carved up a few 6 – 12 inchers. Tobes is getting pretty nimble on that plank and was getting right across these tiddlers, so come a real wave he’ll be dangerous. All in all it was just good to get wet."
(Ross)
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